It’s was a jam-packed few days over in Innsbruck, Austria, where the International Federation of Sport Climbing is hosting the latest events in their World Cup Series at the iconic Kletterzentrum.
Things kicked off with the Paraclimbing World Cup and European Speed Cup which took place from 22 to 24 June. This has been the first international paraclimbing competition since the 2019 World Paraclimbing Championships in Briançon, France, which saw Team Japan and Team USA dominate the podiums. This year saw 77 athletes, men and women, compete across ten different Sport Classes classified according to the nature of the athletes’ impairments; this format allows for athletes with similar disabilities to compete in a level playing field.
For the full paraclimbing results, click here.
To watch the livestream of the paraclimbing finals, click here.
This week also saw the launch of the lead competition season, along with another boulder World Cup. A total of 289 are competing, with 189 registered for lead and 215 registered for bouldering. On Wednesday, 23 June the men and women’s lead qualifications round kicked off, followed by the boulder qualifications on Thursday, 24 June.
On the morning of Friday, 25 June the lead semi-finals took place. On the women’s side, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia is in first place, with Italy’s Laura Rogora and Team USA’s Brooke Raboutou in second and third place respectively. As for the men, Czech competitor Adam Ondra sits at the top of the leaderboard, with Spain’s Alberto Ginés López in second and Austria’s own Jakob Schubert in third place.
For the women’s lead results, click here.
For the men’s lead results, click here.
Boulder qualifications saw Raboutou taking the lead amongst the women, closely followed by Garnbret and Akiyo Noguchi from Japan. As for the men, Schubert finds himself in first place, with different players earning high scores, with Japan’s Yoshiyuki Ogata and Tomoa Narasaki in second and third.
For the women’s boulder qualification results, click here.
For the men’s boulder qualification results, click here.
In his hometown of Innsbruck, Austrian Olympian Jakob Schubert climbed atop the men’s podium, earning the 22nd gold medal of his World Cup career. Hot on Schubert’s heels was Italian Stefano Ghisolfi, who placed second, Switzerland’s Sascha Lehmann completed the men’s podium in third place. In a shock-turn of events, Czech climbing star Adam Ondra, who will compete at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 this summer, fell at hold 17. Currently recovering from a shoulder injury, Ondra had an unfortunate series of slips during the first section of the wall, resulting in an unexpected last-place finish.
No surprises in the women’s event, Slovenian sensation Janja Garnbret claimed her 28th World Cup gold medal. In a stunning performance, Garnbret achieved the only top of tonight’s final. Fellow Olympians Brooke Raboutou, of the USA, and Akiyo Noguchi, of Japan, joined Garnbret on the women’s Lead podium.
Full results from the men’s final can be found here, and the women’s results can be seen here.
The podium of the women’s event is as follows:
- Janja Garnbret (SLO)
- Brooke Raboutou (USA)
- Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
The men’s podium is as follows:
- Jakob Schubert (AUT)
- Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)
- Sascha Lehmann (SUI)
Men’s & Women’s Boulder Finals
Slovenian Janja Garnbret claimed her second World Cup win of the week in the women’s event and in the men’s, team Japan occupied all three podium positions. Full results from the women’s Boulder World Cup can be seen here, and the men’s here.
The women’s podium is as follows:
- Janja Garnbret (SLO)
- Natalia Grossman (USA)
- Stasa Gejo (SRB)
The men’s podium is as follows:
- Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN)
- Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
- Kokoro Fujii (JPN)
