Nathaniel Coleman has climbed No One Mourns the Wicked (9a/V17) at Thunder Ridge, Colorado, pulling off a stunning first ascent that adds a new layer of difficulty to the infamous Defying Gravity (8c/V15). The route, originally climbed by Daniel Woods over a decade ago, has been whispered about for years. People speculated about the possibility of a lower start but doubted it could ever happen.
Why? Because the single move on Defying Gravity has been considered one of the hardest moves in the world. Linking a V13/8B boulder into that already brutal, low-percentage crux seemed impossible. But this year, Coleman returned to Thunder Ridge with a mission: to master the move and tackle the new, harder intro.
The film documenting his journey gives an incredible look into his process. It opens with Coleman breaking down the Defying Gravity crux in detail, showcasing some of the best micro-beta ever caught on camera. He shares his step-by-step analysis, explaining the subtle body shifts, precise footwork, and mental focus required to piece it together.
“This project was all about precision and patience,” Coleman said. “The lower start added so much complexity, but I couldn’t let go of the idea. I wanted to see if I could make it work.”
After months of projecting, tweaking his beta, and refusing to give up, Coleman finally pieced it all together. No One Mourns the Wicked stands as a monumental achievement, pushing the limits of what’s possible in climbing and showcasing Coleman’s ability to thrive under intense challenges.
If you want to see a masterclass in climbing, from beta breakdowns to one of the hardest sends of the year, check out the film here: Nathaniel Coleman – No One Mourns the Wicked.
In 2024, Nathaniel Coleman visited South Africa’s famed Rocklands, where he tackled iconic boulders and soaked in the world-class sandstone. During his trip, he also stopped by CityROCK Cape Town for a special Q&A session with our very own Chris Cosser, sharing insights about his Olympic experience and life as a pro climber.
