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Beta sharing

A place to share your good beta for routes you climbed or ask questions on beta for a project you are working

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Abseil anchor tips and tricks.

First post and replies | Last post by SNORT, 6 months ago

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This abseil point in pic is safe enough believe it or not. There is apparently some narrative that there is potential for the cord to roll and ride up and come off a horn like this, but it is illogical and mechanically pretty much impossible if the rope is weighted downward. In any case I used sticks to jamb the cord in and prevent it blowing off. If the Abseil is short one can sometimes flick the cord off and retrieve it but then do not jamb in sticks. I also use a death knot (overhand knot) for temporary points as double fisherman's use more cord length and bind very tightly resulting in the cord being discarded. One more thing, pulling the rope down must be done slowly so as not to damage the cord. If you come across a piece of tat like this check the cord for wear and rotate it in any case or replace it and keep this piece for prussicking.

By SNORT

6 months ago

Updated Slanghoek Route Guide

First post and replies | Last post by goodBETA, 2 years ago

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Last month, February 2023, Richard Halsey released a brand-new route guide for one of the only true big-wall crags in South Africa – Slanghoek Amphitheatre in the Western Cape. Get all the details here and download the free PDF below:

By goodBETA

2 years ago

Strubens Valley - Far right, 4 routes not in the guide books

First post and replies | Last post by MakoShark, 2 years ago

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Hey guys, Was at this crag yesterday and went to the far right section, the last climb on any guide I can find is "The unbearable awesomness of an improvised toothbrush".I took a walk more to the right and about another 30m or so from this climb is another 4 climbs in the thick foresty area there and cant find any info on them, I climbed one and the one hanger was a bit loose and the chains were very rusted and could tell no one had climbed there in ages. Anyone have any info on these climbs?See below picture of where the climbs are

By MakoShark

2 years ago

Yellowwood New Route "Turbulent Times" 20

First post and replies | Last post by SNORT, 3 years ago

259

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This is is new and fast route of 4 or 5 pitches (depending on your appetite for long pitches). It takes the very obvious right facing corner visible from the water drip between Lekker Time and Adventure Time. There is like one 20 move protected by a bomber rock 5 at your waist so very friendly move. And then there is very moderate mostly easy climbing including an easy but spectacular exit past the overhang at the top. Willem Le Roux and me were done with the route before lunch and all in the shade. And then its a short walk to the Timerity Abseil.It appears lichenous but climbs easily and cleanly. No guessing how the name is derived.

By SNORT

3 years ago

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