For the first time in the history of Sport Climbing, three separate Speed events will be held for both men and women, featuring the debut of the individual four-lane competition alongside the established team four-lane event. The format, first introduced at the Asian Games Jakarta-Palembang 2018 and later featured at the Hangzhou 2022 Asian Games, will be part of the six medal events at the upcoming World Games in 2025.
These new events will join the traditional two-lane individual competition, with a total of 36 male and 36 female athletes competing for medals across the six disciplines. The individual four-lane competition is expected to bring a new level of excitement and intensity to the sport, offering a larger, faster, and more thrilling format than ever before.
In a statement, IFSC President Marco Scolaris expressed his excitement about the new format: “We are predominantly an individual sport, but now everyone watching will be treated to some fast and furious racing with a rare opportunity for the athletes to win and share medals alongside their international teammates.”
IFSC Expands Speed Events in Response to Sport Climbing’s Growth
Sport Climbing has been part of The World Games (TWG) program since 2005 when Speed and Lead disciplines were featured at the event in Duisburg, Germany. In 2017 and 2022, Boulder was added to the line-up. However, following discussions between the IFSC and the International World Games Association (IWGA) Executive Committee, Speed will be the only discipline included in the 2025 World Games program, in response to growing popularity and sustainability concerns. This decision reflects the evolving landscape of Sport Climbing, with Speed being a major draw for spectators.
Test Event Highlights Thrills of Four-Lane Format
In preparation for the 2025 World Games in Chengdu, the new four-lane Speed format was tested in Madrid, where some of the world’s top climbers gathered at the Explanada Puente del Rey. The new format required climbers to race four times, once in each lane, with the eight fastest progressing directly to the final. A “Play-In” round allowed another 16 climbers a second chance, with the two fastest from each group joining the final rounds. The climbers raced head-to-head, with the two fastest advancing through each stage of the finals until the winners were decided.
Exciting Results in Test Event Finals
The women’s final saw a dominant performance by Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi, who took first place with a blistering time of 6.49 seconds. Her compatriot Raijah Sallsabillah secured third place, while Jeong Jimin of the Republic of Korea claimed silver. Zhang Shaoqin of China narrowly missed the podium after a fall.
In the men’s final, Long Jinbao of China clinched victory by the slimmest of margins, tying with Kazakhstan’s Amir Maimuratov at 4.98 seconds but winning on a photo finish. Indonesia continued to shine with Olympic champion Veddriq Leonardo finishing third, making it three podium finishes for the country. Zach Hammer of the United States placed fourth after an untimely slip, while Sam Watson, the world record holder and Olympic bronze medalist, had to sit out due to food poisoning.
The new format, featuring faster races and multiple competitors at once, promises an electrifying future for Speed climbing. With the success of the test event, anticipation is high for the full implementation of the four-lane format at the World Games in Chengdu next year.
