Planning a sport climbing trip to Cape Town? The Cape Peninsula is home to a wide range of crags, but finding reliable beta can sometimes take a bit of time. That’s why we have compiled everything into a simple guide including some of the most popular peninsula crags. This includes information on access, parking, and if your furry friends can join you on your adventure.
If you are looking for more details, or maybe we missed your favourite crag, head to Mountain Mail Order to grab your copy of Western Cape Rock.
Crag Quick links
In order of easiest crag to hardest
Higgovale Quarry
Parking
56 Glencoe Ave, Gardens, Cape Town, 8001
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card.
Overview
Granite climbing in a quarry in the suburb of Higgovale. Quick and easy after work. Gets cold in winter.
Approach
From Tamboerskloof in the City Bowl, drive up Molteno Road, almost to the top, and turn right into Glencoe Avenue, drive to the end of the avenue and park before the boom. Please park considerately – not in the fire hydrant area, or in a way that will piss off the residents.
Cross the boom and walk for about a minute, then scramble over the shoulder to the right of the gate. Once in the quarry, walk to the right, first passing The Peanut Gallery on your right, to reach The Polling Booth, the largish flat wall at the end. The wall on your left as you enter the quarry is The Cinema.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: This crag gets morning shade with afternoon sun in summer, and is mostly shaded in winter.
- Chance of running into a ranger: Medium
- Companions: Dog and Kid friendly
Skoorsteenkop
Parking
Whittlers Way in Hout Bay. The path starts immediately opposite #37 Whittlers Way.
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card.
Overview
A great, if somewhat forgotten crag, overlooking Hout Bay. Perfect venue for a hot afternoon, but can be cool and a little unpleasant if the Southeaster wind picks up. Some of the finest 23/6c+ routes on the Peninsula, on nice coarse sandstone.
Approach
Directly opposite number 37 you will see a gate above a sandy slope. Unlock this gate and relock it after you have passed through, then make your way up a strip of no-man’s land for about 100 metres to another locked gate. Go through this and relock, then follow the fence line to reach a dirt track. Cross this and continue to follow the fence line to the very top where the fence makes a 90° left turn.Carry on following the fence (some cairns) till you reach a gate on the left and a big cairn on the right. Follow the path (sometimes vague, but cairned) steeply up the slope, which eventually winds its way up and around the koppie to the crag.
*Note: When operating the locks on the gates, care should be taken, as the gates are well endowed with razor wire.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: Morning sun, with afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: Low
- Gate Code: 0623
Fawlty Towers
(Silvermine Nature Reserve)
Parking
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card. Entry requires payment of either the Silvermine Gate entrance fee on arrival or presentation of a valid SANparks Wild Card:
- SA Adults – R44 entry fee
- SA Kids – R22 entry fee
- Sport Climbing day permit – R111
Overview
Very different from any of the other Silvermine crags. Here you will find some easy climbs, but many harder routes with steep roofy sections.
Approach
From the top end of the main parking area, follow the path marked ‘Elephant’s Eye’. After about 10 minutes you will reach another dirt track. Turn left here and continue, following two short-cut signs to Elephant’s Eye (the first marking the start of a longish path and the second the start of a much shorter path), until you level out at the top of the second steepish path (about 20 minutes from the car). Continue for a minute or two, and just as the path starts to descend on the other side, you will see a good narrow path snaking off to the right. Take this path and walk for about 5 minutes until the path runs over a flat rocky section. Just after this the path curls off to the left and gets quite close to the edge of the ridge. Here you will find a big cairn. Break off left at the cairn and walk/scramble down the left side of the crag (facing out) to gain the base.
*Note: The Silvermine gate closes at 7pm, be sure to be out by then or you will get locked in and have to pay a hefty release fee.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: In summer this crag gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In winter the crag will get late afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: High
New Crag! Lower Fawlty Towers Extension
(Silvermine Nature Reserve)
Parking
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card. Entry requires payment of either the Silvermine Gate entrance fee on arrival or presentation of a valid SANparks Wild Card:
- SA Adults – R44 entry fee
- SA Kids – R22 entry fee
- Sport Climbing day permit – R111
Overview
The routes are long, and include interesting features created by bizarre weathering of the rock (as it is soft in some places), this makes for interesting climbing. A number of projects are still in progress.
Climb carefully as these are all new routes and in spite of cleaning, small foot and hand holds may still break over the next few ascents – until the routes settle in. Belay to the side and WEAR A HELMET!
Approach
Approach as for Fawlty Towers but then head down leftwards to the lower tier – via a number of stainless steel staples to assist you with your descent.
- Crag Route Guide: Click here
- Best time to climb: In summer this crag gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In winter the crag will get late afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: High
- Companions: Your helmets!
Silvermine Main Crag
(Silvermine Nature Reserve)
Parking
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card. Entry requires payment of either the Silvermine Gate entrance fee on arrival or presentation of a valid SANparks Wild Card:
- SA Adults – R44 entry fee
- SA Kids – R22 entry fee
- Sport Climbing day permit – R111
Overview
A great crag with some long, excellent routes. Definitely the main event.
Approach
From the middle of the main car park take the path marked ‘To the Crags’. Follow this till you reach a dirt track. Cross straight over and pick up the path on the other side. Continue along the path to gain the top of the ridge where the path veers off left and along the ridge. Walk on till about 50 metres from the high point of the ridge. Here you will see a cairn on your right and a gap in some logs. Go over the ridge here and drop down, keeping close to the ridge. After about a minute you will see a path snaking steeply down to the right. This leads to Blaze of Glory. Just keep on straight at the fork till you reach some steepish rocky steps. Scramble down here to gain access to the base of the crag.
*Note: The Silvermine gate closes at 7pm, be sure to be out by then or you will get locked in and have to pay a hefty release fee.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: In summer this crag gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In winter the crag will get late afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: High
Blaze of Glory
(Silvermine Nature Reserve)
Parking
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card. Entry requires payment of either the Silvermine Gate entrance fee on arrival or presentation of a valid SANparks Wild Card:
- SA Adults – R44 entry fee
- SA Kids – R22 entry fee
- Sport Climbing day permit – R111
Overview
Very nice vertical crag, with some slightly overhanging sections.
Approach
Approach as for Main Crag, but at the fork after the ridge, go right. Follow this path to the top of the crag in a few minutes, then scramble down an easy shallow gully to gain access to the base of the crag.
*Note: The Silvermine gate closes at 7pm, be sure to be out by then or you will get locked in and have to pay a hefty release fee.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: In summer this crag gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In winter the crag will get late afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: High
Underside
Parking
Gate 2, Silvermine Nature Reserve
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card. Entry requires payment of either the Silvermine Gate entrance fee on arrival or presentation of a valid SANparks Wild Card:
- SA Adults – R44 entry fee
- SA Kids – R22 entry fee
- Sport Climbing day permit – R111
Overview
Situated high above The Mine, Underside is a crag where you will almost certainly escape the masses.
Approach
Get onto Ou Kaapse Weg from either side. Near the top of the pass (on the Noordhoek side) turn off at Gate 2. Drive to the end of the gravel road and park.
From the parking bays, follow a well-constructed path signposted ‘Steenberg Peak’. Follow this past a huge square boulder on the right (the original Silvermine boulder, and arguably where bouldering started in South Africa) and continue along until the path turns to the right and starts ascending. Once at the top of the valley (about 20 minutes from your car), you will come to a split. Take the left path and follow this for about another 10 minutes. Keep a sharp eye out for a small cairn on a rock on the left (and another on the edge of the ridge) which
marks a vague path snaking through the shrubbery. This is the path down to the crags.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: This crag gets morning sun, with afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: High
Lower Silvermine
(Silvermine Nature Reserve)
Parking
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card. Entry requires payment of either the Silvermine Gate entrance fee on arrival or presentation of a valid SANparks Wild Card:
- SA Adults – R44 entry fee
- SA Kids – R22 entry fee
- Sport Climbing day permit – R111
Overview
Far and away the most popular sport crags in the Peninsula (although it is closely followed by Lakeside Pinnacle). It has a good variety of easy routes from grade 13 to 19, as well as some good routes in the slightly harder grades. Cloud Nine Wall has some interesting (read testy) routes in the 19 to 21 grade range and The Pumphouse is just that. Pumpy! With some excellent harder routes.
Approach
At the end of the lower car park, cross the boom and pick up the path on the far side of the dirt track. Follow this to a frok and keeping right, continue until you round the edge of the ridge. Scramble over some big dead tree trunks and down some short rock steps to gain the continuation of the path. Follow this along the base of a series of small rock bands. The first short crag you reach is The Jailhouse, then Cloud Nine Wall followed by the main Lower
Silvermine Crag, the 8-Mile Ledge and finally, after a little scramble, The Pumphouse.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: In summer this crag gets morning sun with afternoon shade. In winter the crag will get late afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: High
The Mine
Parking
Ou Kaapse Weg (M64), Muizenberg Mountains, Cape Town, 7950
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card.
Overview
The first pucker sport crag in South Africa. The Mine is famous for steep, pumpy routes and you need to feel strong to enjoy yourself here. From bouldery 5-metre routes to long pump fests, this crag has something for most, as well as some not-so-steep moderate grades. Comprised of smooth, hard, brown sandstone, The Mine can get very shlauky when the Southeaster wind blows. It can also sometimes get a little crowded on rainy days.
Approach
Turn onto Ou Kaapse Weg from the Cape Town side. About 100 metres up take a left. A little way up you will see a dirt track on your right. Drive past this and park near the guardhouse.
Walk back to the dirt track and follow this, keeping right at the fork until you reach the obvious
hairpin bend after about 20 minutes. From here follow the path to the crag.
*Note: Recent security concerns at the parking lot, be cautious.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: In summer this crag is in the shade most of the day. In winter, this crag is in the sun most of the day.
- Chance of running into a ranger: Low
Lakeside Pinnacle
Parking
Boyes Drive, Muizenberg Mountains, Cape Town, 7950
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card.
Overview
A popular beginner and rehab crag, with some very nice, shortish routes, especially Slab ‘n Tickle and Undercling. With more routes being added recently, it has become a very popular crag.
Approach
From the Main Road in Lakeside, turn up Boyes Drive, past The Toad on The Road pub on the corner. Carry on for about 1,5km and park on the side of the road shortly after the first long bend. From the road, follow the path up the bushy slope to the base of the crag.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: This crag gets morning sun with afternoon to late afternoon shade.
- Chance of running into a ranger: Low
- Companions: Dog friendly
The Hole
Parking
Pecks Valley Hiking Trail, Boyes Drive, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7950
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card.
Overview
The main crag at The Hole is one of the steeper crags in the Western Cape, with lots of horizontal roofs. Bring your best pair of forearms of you want to have fun here. The Sideline and Sunset Wall were bolted by Sean Maasch, but the routes were opened by others. The crags are not nearly as steep as The Hole, with The Sideline giving easy climbing on a short vertical wall. Because of its close proximity to the sea, the rock can get schlauky during and after the Southeaster wind.
Approach
Follow a steep, stepped path, which leads to a contour path in about 5 minutes. Turn right here and continue along the path, which starts to rise gradually at first, then more steeply. After another 5 minutes look out for a small cairned path snaking off to the right. Take this well-laid path and follow it for about 15 minutes to reach The Sideline. Go right here to reach The Hole and left for about 5 minutes around a corner and past some low shallow caves to reach Sunset Wall.
Alternatively, if you want to go directly to Sunset Wall or take the original path to The Hole, carry on up the main path (do not take a right onto the cairned path mentioned above) for a further 5 minutes, until you pass a prominent orange square boulder on the right. Just after this, look out for a vague path (cairned at the start) going off right, more or less level
with the base of Sunset Wall. Follow this to Sunset Wall and continue on past the
low caves and around the corner to reach The Sideline and The Hole.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: This crag gets early morning sun, followed by shade for the rest of the day.
- Chance of running into a ranger: Low
Peer’s Cave
Parking
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card.
Overview
Short, steep and powerful routes of all grades on solid quarzitic sandstone. This crag has had a few serious mugging incidents over the last few years, so if you want to climb here go in a big group or take a pointed stick along with you.
Approach
Go over Ou Kaapse Weg and descend towards Noordhoek until you reach a 4-way crossing. The crossroad is Silvermine Road. It is better to turn right here and park near Silvermine Village on the left. This way your car won’t get broken into. If you feel invincible, then go over the 4-way crossing and park in the gravel parking lot on your le a er the next bend.
Walk back to Kaapse Weg, then further 400m down towards Fishhoek until you see a small parking area at the start of the Peer’s Cave trail. Due to car break-in’s it is best NOT to use this parking. Follow the path to the top of the hill.
Note: Visitors should remain aware of their surroundings when visiting this crag. Climb at your own risk.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: This crag gets morning shade, with afternoon sun.
- Chance of running into a ranger: Low
- Companions: Dog friendly
Trappieskop
Parking
Clovelly Rd, Cape Town, 7975 (for an flatter, longer walk in), Godfrey Rd, Clovelly Cape Town, 7975 (for a steeper, shorter walk in).
Permits
Level 2 Activity Permit required. OR valid MCSA Card.
Overview
The routes here are short and mostly powerful, on excellent, hard quartzitic sandstone. A great winter crag, as the majority of the routes are in the sun for most of the day. It is also a crag with good views and a pleasant ambience, and one that is not visited by many people, so if you are looking for a quiet day at the crag, this is a good choice. Because of its close proximity to the sea, the rock can get schlauky after the Southeaster wind.
Approach
From Godfrey Road: From the ‘Trappieskop’ sign, follow a good stepped path, which starts fairly steeply. After about 10 minutes you will come to a short rock-paved section where the path makes a semi-circle turn to the left. There is also a path branching off to the left at this point. To get to the left side of the top tier, take the left fork and follow it to the base of the crags (10 min). For the right side of the top tier and the lower tier, continue around to the left and follow the path over a low hill till you arrive at a junction with a good path. Take a left here and follow the path to the crags (10 min).
From Clovelly Road: From Main road turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10 metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left “boulder” turns out to be Mermaid wall.
- Crag Route Guide: Online here, or in Western Cape Rock
- Best time to climb: This crag gets morning shade, with afternoon sun.
- Chance of running into a ranger: Low
Misty Cliffs
*Note: Misty Cliffs is on a private property and a special permit is required to climb here.
Click here to fill out the permit.
Parking
Main Rd, Scarborough, Cape Town
Overview
The crag is on private land (Baskloof Nature Reserve) and permits are required for access. Some of the routes are long and require a 70m rope and at least 14 draws.
Approach
Do not park on Old Camp Road. Park on the main road close to BLOS and walk up Old Camp Road until the direct path straight up right of the houses is accessed. At the top house take the right contour single track path and follow cairns diagonally right following cairns, until you traverse around the corner and come across the excellent long and steep sport crag.
