The IFSC have reformatted and announced a brand new scoring system for the Paris Olympics. This new format will see its debut at the European Championships hosted in Munich scheduled for October 2022.
The debut of Sport Climbing at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics saw a format different to the World Cup Circuit. The triathlon format of all athletes competing in speed, lead and bouldering with their places in each one being multiplied by each other. Example, an athlete who came 1st in speed, 3rd on bouldering and 2nd in lead – 1x3x2 =6 points. Athlete with the lowest score wins.
The 2024 Olympics to be hosted in Paris has now allocated 2 gold medals for Sport Climbing, 1 for speed and 1 for lead and bouldering combined. The scoring system of the Paris 2024 format will be based on performance, with the final score of each athlete being the sum of the points collected in the two phases of the event. The maximum total score is 200 points, evenly distributed between Boulder and Lead.
The main principles of the two phases are as follows:
Boulder scoring:
– The maximum score of the Boulder phase is 100;
– There will be four boulders in each round, all featuring two zones and one top;
– The maximum score of each problem is 25 points – athletes will earn 3 points by securing the first zone, then move to 6 points if they secure the second zone, and claim the full 25 points if they secure the top;
– 1 point will be deducted for each fall while attempting to top.
Lead scoring:
– The maximum score of the Lead phase is 100;
-There will be one Lead route per round, and only the final 30 moves of each route will award points;
– Counting back from the top of the route, the last 15 moves will earn the athlete 5 points each, the previous 10 moves will earn the athlete 2 points each, and the previous five moves will earn the athlete 1 point each;
– Any moves prior to the last 30 will earn the athlete 0 points.
Speed is pretty straight forward with the fastest time winning through knock out rounds.
Ever since the inclusion of Sport Climbing in the Olympic Games, climbers and the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) have angled toward three distinct medal events: Lead, Speed, and Boulder. Lets see what happens at the 2028 Olympics in Los Angeles…
