New Routes In Montagu

15 new routes have been established at a number of Montagu crags.

Montagu – arguably the mecca of Western Cape sport climbing – is just getting better and better with new routes being bolted at an impressive pace. Illona Pelser’s Greater Good Bolting Fund (GGBF) has been the driving force behind this bolting wave, having financed the bolting of 14 new routes at a range of Montagu crags.

Routes bolted thus far include:

The Panel
(Includes the Oros Wall, Like Lambs Wall and the Panel Wall)

Kool-Aid (18)
Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds (20)
Time Wool Tell (16)
Baby Don’t Herd Me (22)
The Sheep of Things to Come (20)
Sugarman (16)

Berlin Wall

Bratwurst (17/18) 
Der Tigerkönig (21)
Rette den Esel (18)

Illona Pelser on Rette den Esel (18) | Photo credit: GGBF.
Colin Crabtree on Swamp Thing (22) | Photo credit: GGBF.

Another exciting development has been Oan de Waal’s establishment of a new 26 at Legoland: Lord at Begoland. Many a strong climber has spent hours at this easy crag introducing beginners to the sport, but there are just a handful of harder climbs for these seasoned senders to enjoy. Lord at Begoland starts just to the right of Eddie of Bovidence (24) and then links with the 24 about halfway up.

Oan explains that this exciting new route offers lots of thin crimps and side-pulls, and it demands a lot of body tension and technical footwork. The name is a spoonerism of “Bored at Legoland” – a familiar feeling for many Cape climbers – and carries on the playful tradition started by the original developers of the crag, as can be seen in Steve Bradshaw’s Eddie of Bovidence (Body of Evidence) and Ed February’s challenging 24, Cleinous Hing (Heinous Cling).

Needless to say that the establishment of so many new routes in this stellar area is immensely exciting, and we extend our gratitude to all those that have been involved in this important community development.