Your climbing rope is your lifeline – literally. But as much as we’d like them to last forever, ropes need regular maintenance to stay reliable, and they do need to be retired once they’ve reached the end of their life. Here’s how to keep your rope in peak condition, assess its safety and avoid unexpected “surprises” on the wall…
1. Rope Lifespan: Is Yours Living on Borrowed Time?
Most soft gear, ropes included, last about five years with regular use, though some TLC can extend their lifespan. Thicker ropes are hardier and perfect for regular gym sessions, while thinner ropes may wear more quickly and are best reserved for outdoor expeditions.
Any ropes more than 10 years old should not be climbed on.
2. Core Integrity Check
A worn core is like a weak heart for your rope. The squeeze test and wave test are quick ways to check if it’s still in good shape:
Squeeze test: Pinch a bight of rope between two fingers and gently squeeze the strands together – a healthy rope should feel stiff and keep its shape nicely, a damaged rope will feel soft and relatively easy to pinch together.
Squeeze test: Healthy rope on the left, damaged rope on the right.
Wave test: Hold the rope with your hands about 30cm apart and create a wave with the rope – a healthy rope will make a nice even wave while a damaged rope may create uneven bends or be too soft to make a wave.
3. Keep Your Rope Clean
A little dirt is unavoidable outdoors, but it’s not great for your gear as dust, grime and debris can sneak in between the fibres and speed up wear. Keep your rope clean by (a) always using a rope tarp and (b) washing it at least once a season using a chemical-free detergent such Nikwax Tech Wash– no one wants their rope to give out because it’s carrying half the mountain with it!
4. Fuzzy but Functional?
Not all fluff is bad, but if your rope is starting to look like a shag carpet, it might be time to reassess. A little fluffiness happens naturally with use, but excessive fuzz is your rope’s way of waving a red flag. We recommend performing a squeeze or wave test on any fluffy bits of rope, particularly the end/s, which tend to wear out the fastest due to knot-tying and belaying. Our shop team is always happy to inspect your rope if you are uncertain!
5. Sunburn
Sunlight might feel glorious on your skin, but it’s harsh on gear. Excessive UV exposure weakens rope fibres and should be minimised where possible. When your rope isn’t being used, keep it safely tucked away out of direct sunlight – we recommend investing in a rope bag to keep your lifeline safe, clean and organised at all times.
6. Trimming the Ends (a.k.a. Rope Haircuts)
As the ends of your rope are going to wear out the fastest, it is recommended that you trim these whenever they get too soft and fuzzy – but don’t just snip away willy-nilly. Cut both ends evenly to keep your mid-line centred and help you keep track of the rope’s actual length.
Pro tip: always tie a stopper knot at the end of your rope before climbing or rappelling so you don’t slide off the end if the rope ends up being too short.
7. Does Your Belay Device Like Your Rope?
A soft, worn rope can be a real pain in the belay device. If your rope is too squishy, it might not work as effectively with the device, making it difficult to maintain control while belaying/rappelling. It is also important to ensure that your belay device and rope diameter are compatible – you can check your device’s packing or investigate online to find its optimised rope diameter range.
8. Ask Your Local Gear Shop for Help!
If you have any doubts about the integrity of your rope, please bring it into your nearest climbing gear store for some peace of mind! They can give it a once-over and let you know if it needs a trim or if it’s time to lay it to rest – these services are free so don’t be shy. They will measure, inspect, and use a hot knife to finish the job neatly if it needs a cut—no fuzzy ends.
With a little maintenance and regular check-ups, your rope can stay in top condition and keep you safely off the ground. So follow these tips, give it a little love, and keep your climbs safe!
