I firmly believe that every climber has a climbing superpower. Some of us are lucky enough to have more than one. And then there are the annoyingly good climbers with several superpowers—it’s fine, we’re not bitter at all.
My personal climbing superpower? Great skin. Not exactly what I would’ve picked, but hey, you take what you can get. Even back when I was climbing hard, I never had skin issues. Lucky me, I’m told.
Recently, I watched a friend—a sweet, enthusiastic newbie—absolutely wreck her fingers. Two giant holes on her middle and ring fingers, courtesy of a sharp hold on the spray wall. As a hand therapist, I encounter all kinds of hands with unique stories, and this got me thinking about climbers’ hands and skin in general.
The Fascinating World of Climber’s Hands
Once you start paying attention, climbers’ hands are downright fascinating. Some of you out there have downright scary skin: calluses, craters, grazes, splits, abrasions, hangnails, raw fingertips, and flappers galore. These are not the hands you see modeling rings in a jewelry store.
There’s also a bit of a theory floating around gyms that gnarlier skin equals better climbing. Flappers and calluses weirdly become brag-worthy. People proudly show off their bloodied hands like badges of honor. Which is a bit ironic, considering that busted skin is not just painful but can also keep you off the wall (and, let’s face it, no one wants your blood smeared all over the holds).
Does Gnarly Skin Equal Hard Climbing?
Here’s the thing I’ve noticed: gnarly skin doesn’t always mean you’re a hard climber. I’ve seen beginners with skin splits so deep they look like they’ve been through a medieval torture device. And I’ve met top-level climbers with smooth, flawless skin that looks like it’s been exfoliated by angels.
So maybe the state of your hands has less to do with how hard you climb and more to do with genetics, hand care, lifestyle, season, and that cosmic lottery of climbing superpowers.
Trends in Climber’s Skin
After observing countless climber hands, here are some trends I’ve noticed:
- Beginners: Blisters—the classic beginner’s curse. Often turn into deep flappers (ouch).
- Trad Climbers: Battle scars galore—cuts and scrapes in odd places.
- Crack Climbers: Missing skin on the backs of their hands unless they’re taping pros (or blessed with invincible technique).
- Regular Climbers: Calluses on their ring and little fingers in varying degrees of “brag-ability.”
- Boulderers: Finger carnage champions.
- Route Setters: The most hardcore hands of all. Their skin tells stories of endless setting, testing, and suffering for our climbing enjoyment.
Embrace Your Climbing Superpower
If you’re plagued by skin problems, don’t worry—there are things you can do to improve your climbing skin game. But that’s a story for another day. For now, go forth and embrace your climbing superpower, whatever it may be (even if it’s just great skin).
Just, you know, try not to bleed on the wall.
Happy climbing!
JENNI COMINS
Occupational Therapy
BSC OT (Wits)
Dip Hand Therapy (UP)
Practice no: 0595926
The Rehab Room
CityROCK – Johannesburg
46 Fourth Ave South, Fontainebleau
[email protected]
082 449 5782
