What is RED-s and why should the climbing community be talking about it?
On the 5th of July, a statement was released from Dr. Volker Schöffl announcing his and Dr. Eugen Burtscher’s immediate resignation from the IFSC Medical Commission. It quickly spread through multiple social media and online platforms, causing great dismay among the climbing community.
An excerpt from Alannah Yip explains the issue bluntly: “Climbing has a cultural and systemic weight problem. It’s a dirty little non-secret that everyone knows about but no one does much about. In a sport where you are fighting gravity, weight clearly plays a role.”
The question is: why is there a big fuss about it now, when it has been happening for ages? After years of assessing elite climbing athletes, the IFSC Medical Commission now has the data to prove that it is happening. According to Dr. Volker Schöffl, in the past 10 years they have seen a significant increase in cases of Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S) and disordered eating patterns, often referred to as anorexia athletica, in competition climbers.
Schöffl states during his interview with Alex Megos that considerable suggestions have been made by the Medical Commission to the IFSC to manage this trend, as the commission exists to maintain the wellbeing of all athletes.
What is RED-S and anorexia athletica?
RED-S: Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S) was defined by the International Olympic Committee in 2014. It occurs when an athlete does not provide their body with sufficient caloric intake to match their energy expenditure—for example, climbing or training intensively without adequate nutritional replenishment. A person does not need to be malnourished or underweight to be affected by RED-S. It can occur even in those with a normal BMI.
Anorexia Athletica: Anorexia Athletica is a term often used to describe a pattern of disordered eating where athletes intentionally reduce body weight to enhance athletic performance. While not a clinical diagnosis in the DSM-5, it reflects serious and potentially harmful behaviors driven by performance goals and sport-specific pressures.
Effects of having RED-S or Anorexia Athletica:
- Decreased bone mineral density, increasing the risk of fractures (especially concerning during adolescence, when peak bone mass is developing)
- Hormonal disruptions, such as secondary amenorrhea in women (loss of the normal menstrual cycle)
- Impaired cardiovascular, metabolic, and immune system function
- Psychological effects including depression, anxiety, and increased risk of eating disorders
- Reduced athletic performance and increased injury risk
If not treated, these symptoms can become chronic and impact long-term health. In severe cases, especially when tied to clinical eating disorders, the consequences can be life-threatening.
Why is it a problem?
Schöffl maintains that this is a serious condition affecting both genders. He notes that some athletes have disappeared from the IFSC circuit due to these issues. He suggests that RED-S and disordered eating may be key reasons behind sudden withdrawals of young competitors.
Reading some of the comments following the official statement from Volker Schöffl was deeply upsetting. One stood out: “Maybe I’m dumb, but at the end of the day, if they want to put their own body in that position, it’s up to them???”
Ethics plays a significant role in this discussion. Consider: would you stand by and watch your friend harm themselves? Most of us would intervene. Yet when someone restricts food to compete, how do we address that?
We can’t control individual behavior, but we can reshape the environment that fosters disordered habits. While this may be uncomfortable at first, the long-term benefits are undeniable.
Silence implies acceptance. If we ignore the pressures driving these behaviors, we tacitly accept that our sport contributes to harmful patterns. Is that what we want for a sport that celebrates nature, strength, and personal growth?
How does it affect South Africa?
RED-S and related conditions often begin subtly and spread quietly, influenced by culture and peer behavior. Phrases like “if you’re lighter, you can climb harder” can be deeply triggering for those with tendencies toward restrictive eating. This isn’t just about competitors; reports suggest climbers of all genders, races, and levels are affected.
This suggests that the South African climbing community must take ownership of this issue rather than leaving it solely to international bodies.
A Way Forward
As a young climber, I was lucky to have a role model who emphasized healthy eating. Our school team captain would always remind us that muscle weighs more than fat and is essential for climbing. Her mantra: “We want our muscles. Weight is good.”
Thanks to that mindset, I only began thinking about weight in my 11th year of climbing. That said, my early nutrition was probably not ideal. I fondly remember grabbing McDonald’s fries mid-practice, but I likely wasn’t fueling adequately for performance.
Education: Knowledge is our first defense. You can’t fight what you don’t understand. If we educate young athletes, we can potentially prevent RED-S from developing. Organizations like Western Cape Climbing offer presentations and workshops for youth. Similar efforts should be extended to adults and recreational climbers. Education must be an ongoing conversation, inclusive of all genders and ages.
Regulations and Rules:
Schöffl notes that route setting styles in IFSC competitions have evolved over the past decade to encourage strength and power over lightness. This was an attempt to reduce pressure around weight.
He also proposes more controversial measures: including RED-S risk management in IFSC rules. Athletes already need a license to compete. If there’s a suspicion of RED-S or related disorders, they could be required to provide further medical and psychological evaluations. Based on results, a risk model could be applied:
Green: Athlete is healthy and cleared to compete
Yellow: Athlete can compete under medical surveillance
Red: Athlete should not compete until medically cleared and recovered to avoid self-harm
This model could guide other sports in managing similar issues. Schöffl argues that with the data in hand, action is overdue.
Role Models
Role models are vital. We must ensure the next generation doesn’t idolize harmful behaviors. Fortunately, several top climbers are helping shift the narrative:
- Alannah Yip
- Alex Megos’ video: “What does Alexander Megos eat for dinner?“
- Kai and Jana Lightner
- Kyra Condie & Chris Cosser via “Cheffing and Chit Talking“
- Sasha DiGiulian, who has promoted healthy food choices and launched Sendbars
The Bottom Line
The first step to solving a problem is acknowledging its existence. Climbing has a long-standing issue with RED-S and disordered eating. Now is the time to address it. Let’s talk about it, make difficult but necessary changes, and ensure we create a healthier culture.
For the sake of the climbers who follow us—and for ourselves—let’s lead by example and protect what we love about this sport.
