If you missed part one of this series – click here to catch up

The Goldilocks Guide to Climbing Skin.

So… what do you do if your climbing skin is horrible? Well, don’t ask me for personal
advice—remember, great skin is my climbing superpower! But as a hand therapist (and a
generally nosy person), I’ve noticed that it all comes down to balance—the Goldilocks effect.
You want skin that’s not too dry, not too wet, but just right.
(Just remember, what’s “just right” changes with the season, the environment, the type of
climbing you’re doing, and a whole lot of other factors. But let’s start with the basics.)

Damp, Thin, and Super Sensitive?

If your skin is too wet, it wears off easily, making your fingertips feel like they’ve been
sandpapered by tiny demons. And while chalk is the go-to solution for sweaty hands, it’s only a
temporary fix.
For something more long-term, there are now skin-drying and hardening products available in
South Africa—just ask Dr. Google. Some stop sweating, while others actually denature skin
proteins to harden the skin. Different products work for different people, so experiment, but give
each product at least a week before deciding if it’s helping.
But avoid over-drying – Yes, it’s possible to go too far! If your skin gets too thick, inelastic and
irregular, you’re at risk of flappers and painful cracks. Remember to gently sand down those
sticky-up bits.

What if you’re going to the crag or gym on a hot day with no drying product?

1. Choose your crag wisely—shade, sun aspect, and time of day all matter. No one enjoys
   climbing sweaty rock. In the gym, climb near the biggest fan.
2. Use a small battery-powered fan—or just wave your hands around like a lunatic between
   attempts.
3. Take longer breaks—this gives your skin time to cool down and dry out naturally.
4. Layer up your chalk—liquid chalk at the base of a climb can create a solid foundation,
   with dry chalk added higher up. Just be careful—some climbers find the alcohol in liquid
   chalk dries out their skin too much.

Dry and Hard?

If your skin is too dry, it becomes brittle and inflexible, which can mean painful splits and tears.
The solution? Moisturise, massage, repeat!

1. Use the expensive moisturisers. Don’t skimp—invest in heavy-duty hand creams or
   climbing-specific healing balms.
2. Try a cracked heel moisturiser. It’s stronger than hand cream and can work wonders for
   dry hands.
3. Glove up at night. Some climbers swear by applying a thick layer of moisturiser before
   bed and sleeping with gloves on.
4. Look at your lifestyle. If your skin is really struggling, consider factors like hydration, diet,
   and other habits. Maybe it’s not just the climbing!

Protecting Damaged Skin

If your skin is already split, torn, or flapping, climbing tape is your best friend. But here’s the
trick—apply it before things get bad!
Taping Tips:
● Tape before the skin rips, especially on known problem areas.
● Tape from the tip of the finger downward—otherwise, the edge will just peel off.
● Anchor it past the next knuckle for extra hold.
● Trim or sand around splits and flappers—this sounds counterintuitive, but removing dead
skin can speed up healing and prevent further tearing.

Final Thoughts

Like so many things in climbing, skin is all about balance – not too dry, not too wet, but just right.
And remember—whatever your climbing superpower is, it’s probably not regenerating skin
overnight. So take care of it!

JENNI COMINS
Occupational Therapy

BSC OT (Wits)
Dip Hand Therapy (UP)
Practice no: 0595926

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The Rehab Room
CityROCK – Johannesburg
46 Fourth Ave South, Fontainebleau

[email protected]
082 449 5782